Welcome to the latest installment of “Five Words From …” our series which highlights interesting words from interesting books! In this installment, semifinalist in Esquire magazine’s Best Dressed Real Man in America contest and Stanford law professor Richard Thompson Ford presents in Dress Codes a history of the laws (and customs so strong they might as well be laws) of fashion, from the middle ages to today.
“Mobutu also banned European attire, imposing a sort of national uniform, a Mao-style tunic called an abacost—short for a bas le costume, or “down with the suit”—inspired by a visit to the People’s Republic of China in 1973.”
Although the abacost is intended to be worn without a tie, it can be worn with a cravat.
“Indeed, the taboo against clothing that revealed or even suggested a woman’s legs was so complete that women wearing loose-fitting trousers became a popular sexual fetish, known in the trade as “bifurcation.””
The word ‘bifurcation’ comes from Latin roots meaning ‘two’ and ‘forked’.
“For instance, the iconic habit of the Sisters of Charity was distinguished by a wimple or cornette—a large starched headdress, with upturned corners.”
In the U.S., the Daughters of Charity wore the cornette until after the Second Vatican Council in 1964. (The most famous representation of the cornette is popular culture is probably the 1960s TV show The Flying Nun.)
“It was also a sisterhood: young women who wore a feminine zoot suit ensemble were labeled pachucas, “Zoot suit gangsterettes,” and “zooterinas.””
The origin of the word pachuca (feminine of pachuco) is unclear. It may come from the name of Pachuca, a city in Mexico, or from a Spanish word meaning ‘yokel’.
“Sprezzatura—the ancient art of seemingly effortless style—is both a status symbol and a way of turning a uniform into a mode of personal expression.”
The word ‘sprezzatura’ was coined in 1528 by Baldassare Castiglione, author of the influential The Book of the Courtier, which addresses the question of what constitutes the courtier, or “ideal gentleman”.


Welcome to the latest installment of “Five words from …” our series which highlights interesting words from interesting books! In this installment, we follow nature writer 

