A Week on the Bogue: NC Aquarium
We'd purchased an annual membership during our Fort Fisher excursion, so during our recent visit to Bogue Banks, we popped in the Pine Knolls location for a quick visit. A waterfall in the mountain exhibit greeted us at the entrance.
From there, we explored the coast, the Tidal Waters, and the Ocean.
And somehow missed the Piedmont. How does anyone miss the North Carolina Piedmont!
Highlights at the Pine Knolls aquarium include playful otters and a Loggerhead turtle nursery, and, as I'd been told on numerous occasions before our visit, the shipwreck tank. It was pretty neat.
Loggerhead swimming with the fish:
And a shark:
Through our own fault, we had been expecting a larger facility, but as we quickly learned, the NC Aquarium at Pine Knolls Shores is a great stop for those visiting Bogue Banks. For more information, including price of admission, go to www.ncaquariums.com/pine-knoll-shores.
Fort Fisher Part II: NC Aquarium
A trip to the North Carolina Aquariums has been on our "To Do" list since we moved to the coastal plains. I put it off solely because I prefer to be outdoors. But we couldn't pass up the opportunity to visit during our Fort Fisher outing.
Featuring aquatic life along the Cape Fear River Basin, the aquarium at Fort Fisher has two levels of displays, including a large ocean tank that extends from the first floor to the second. Here we saw a shark and sting rays swimming around with a variety of other marine life, and a dozen or so children watching with wide-eyed wonder. After checking out all the displays and wishing we could go snorkeling, we stopped by the gift shop before taking a stroll around a scenic courtyard. Several patrons there expressed surprise at the size of the establishment, but a visit coupled with trips to the Recreation and Historic areas definitely rounded out our day.
The entry fee at the time of this writing is $8.00 per adult, but we purchased the family membership for $50.00. This not only gives us free admission to the aquarium at Fort Fisher, Pine Knoll Shores (along with hiking trails there!) and Roanoke Island, but also to the North Carolina Zoo, Sylvan Heights Waterfowl Park, Western NC Nature Center, Riverbanks Zoo in Columbia, SC, the Greenville Zoo in Greenville, SC, and zoos and aquariums across the nation (see Membership Page for specifics).
And I like the idea of popping into one of those attractions whenever we're in town.
For more information on North Carolina Aquariums, go to https://www.ncaquariums.com/
Charleston, South Carolina
What we love about Charleston--beside the architecture, the history, the scenic location between the Ashley and Cooper Rivers, and the convenience to nearby barrier islands--is the proximity of activities in the Historic District. Park on Market Street and from there, take a carriage ride, (which I highly recommend) a guided walking tour, or a ghost tour (I don't believe in ghosts, but it's a lot of fun.) Or shop in the Slave Market where you'll find the famous baskets made by third and fourth generation basket makers (note, the baskets are quite expensive because they're handmade. If you buy one, ask what it's made of. Sweetgrass is getting harder to find and basket makers are using other materials. The vendors have been up front about it when I ask, so don't hesitate.) And all this from Market Street!
What do you in the Historic District depends on what subject you want to explore. Pick history one day and after you learn about Charleston's role in the Revolutionary War and the War Between the States, search for the graves of Stede Bonnet and other pirates hung at White Point Garden, then take a boat to Fort Sumpter (note: the island visible in the near distance from the Battery is the abandoned Castle Pinckney, not Fort Sumpter.) Or learn about the great fire of 1861, or the great earthquake of 1886. Don't forget to visit the Citidel, both old and new. Older is more interesting (to me) because it's now an attractive park in the Historic District.
Choose architecture the next day and take tours of the Miles Brewton house, where Mary Pringle (Mary's World) lived, then head to Rainbow Row, the Battery, the Old Exchange, St Micheal's Church and a plethora of other homes and houses of worship. You'll see two- and three-story Italianates. You'll also spot One Room houses, which the original owners built sideways on the lot for tax purposes. Piazzas (verandas) with wrought iron balustrades are everywhere, and add to the city's charm.
For the kids, visit attractions such as the SC Aquarium (ask if you can have a tour of the sea turtle hospital) or spend time at nearby Waterfront Park.
Outside of the Historic District, the plantations including Boone Hall and Magnolia Plantation and Gardens are wonderful spots to visit:
Check for entrance fees before you go. If you're in the mood for sand and waves, visit Folly Beach. While there, go to the tip of the island and see Morris Lighthouse. Sullivan Island has a lighthouse as well (though not as attractive.) Eco-tours are available on the Isle of Palms, stomping grounds of author, Mary Alice Monroe, one of the many sea turtle volunteers on that island.Hungry? Eat at Sticky Fingers, whether in Mount Pleasant where Boone Hall is located, or downtown on Meeting Street. We always eat at A.W. Shucks on Market Street or--just for fun--Bubba Gumps, also on Market. Some folks love Jestine's Kitchen, but Charleston and the surrounding area is flooded with good restaurants serving great Lowcountry food.
One sight we've yet to see is the Angel Oak on John's Island. Click on the link to see a picture of the old oak tree, which has captured the attention of thousands: www.scangeloaktree.com/
Just another excuse to return.
For more information on Charleston and the surrounding area, check out the following links:
Charleston www.charleston.com/
Folly Beach www.follybeach.com/
Boone Hall boonehallplantation.com/
Bogue Banks on NC's Crystal Coast
Twenty miles long, Bogue Bank is a pencil of an island south of Croatan National Forest. As a barrier island, its job is to protect the raggedy NC coast from Morehead City to the White Oak River Basin, but as it turns out, it's a great outdoor destination.
From the mainland, we crossed the B. Cameron Langston Bridge (Hwy 58) near Cape Carteret, and immediately went to the Bogue Inlet Fishing Pier located on Bogue Inlet Dr in Emerald Isle. The pier is free if you just want to stroll along and admire the view of roiling turquoise waters skimming brown-sugary sand. If you want to fish, stop at the entrance and check out the fees (link is above.) Restrooms are available in the little store that serves as the entrance, and a restaurant opened during the high season is next door.
After walking to the observation tower and watching a few people pull in some nice catches, we headed back to the car and resumed our journey.
With large gift shops displaying beach towels and flip-flops in their windows, Emerald Isle appears to be a typical coast town. But it's clean and the main drag is nice and wide. We continued northward on that road toward Indian Beach and Salter Path. These communities are well developed, but according to the author of exploring north carolina's natural areas, which we brought along, the area is a mix of preservation and development. A thick maritime forest and shrub thickets can be seen throughout the island. In some places, homes have been built within the forest. Many times, we saw only the tips of rooftops and breaks in the trees indicating a driveway exists there.
We drove past those cities toward Pine Knolls, home of the North Carolina Aquarium. We didn't visit on this occasion, but it's on our short list of places to go. Also in Pine Knolls at the aquarium: the Theodore Roosevelt State Natural Area and Nature Trails. According to exploring, the Alice Hoffman Trail is less than a mile and is accessible from inside the aquarium. The second trail, the Theodore Roosevelt Trail is over a mile. Check hours and accessibility before you take small children, strollers, or wheelchairs. Since this is part of the aquarium, I expect one has to pay an admission fee to enter the trails. An attempt to call during this writing failed--the office is apparently closed on Saturdays, so call in advance. I'll update this post as soon as I confirm the information.
Also in Pine Knolls, the Hoop Pole Creek Nature Trail, which winds through maritime forest and marshes. The book states the trailhead is across the street from Hardees. It is, but it's across the small side street, not the main thoroughfare.
I was hungry by this time, but low season has begun along the NC coast which means many of the restaurants are closed, at least during lunch. Fortunately, the 4 Corners Diner, located at 100 E Fort Macon Road in Atlantic Beach, was open. I'm fairly picky when it comes to restaurants, and though the interior has a diner look to it, it's clean, has plenty of seating, and has good food for a decent price. I ordered a crab cake sandwich with a side of fries and a badly needed iced-tea, and my husband ordered breakfast, which is served all day. This will be a return stop on our next visit. Many thanks to them for allowing me to charge my camera battery while we ate (without my mentioning I planned to include them in this report!)I should mention the fact that we saw beach access in various places along the highway. Emerald Isle isn't the only spot on the island to enjoy the beach experience.
Our last stop on this journey was a place I learned about shortly before we began our trip: Fort Macon State Park, located at the northern tip of Bogue Banks. We were shocked to see that Fort Macon really is a fort, and a rather sturdy one at that. Barely visible from the road, the old pentagon structure built in 1826 is below ground and has quite a history. I found the following on the North Carolina Division of Parks site:Construction of the present fort began in 1826. The fort was garrisoned in 1834. In the 1840s, a system of erosion control was initially engineered by Robert E. Lee...At the beginning of the Civil War, North Carolina seized the fort from Union forces. The fort was later attacked in 1862, and it fell back into Union hands. For the duration of the war, the fort was a coaling station for navy ships.
Since it is on the tip of the island, Fort Macon has a beach, a pavilion, and a view of nearby Shackleford Island and Morehead City. It's a great place to picnic, fish, stroll along the beach and watch gulls and other coastal birds. One disadvantage: construction is currently in progress. The fences and equipment are unsightly but fortunately, they're not visible from the beach.
Surprisingly diverse when it comes to outdoor activities, Bogue Banks is a great day or weekend destination for eastern North Carolinians and visitors to these shores. For more information, go to http://www.boguebanks.com/
Charming Coastal Towns in SC
So here it is, my picks for charming coastal towns in SC:
First pick: Charleston, hands down. Once referred to as The Holy City, this southern mecca sits on a peninsula where the Copper and Ashley Rivers meet the Atlantic Ocean. With its architecture; history (Colonial, Christian, Southern, Gullah, Revolutionary War, War Between the States, etc); Aquarium; culinary delights including Lowcounty cuisine; Sweetgrass baskets; carriage rides and walking tours; shopping and strolls around the famous Battery including the Promenade overlooking Castle Pinckney and Fort Sumpter, Charleston is the place to go for a taste of all that is good in the South Carolina Lowcountry. From there, you can travel to Mount Pleasant to visit Boone Hall Plantation; barrier island (Isle of Palms, Sullivan Island, Folly Beach); Magnolia Plantation and Gardens near Summerville; Cypress Gardens in Moncks Corner, and more. It's grand, it's beautiful, and it's a must see when visiting South Carolina.
Second on my list of charming coastal towns is the place I go when I want to unwind and get away from it all: Beaufort, SC. Pronounced "Buford" in SC (Bo-ford in NC), the tidal marshes, golden sunsets, and long, tattered moss fluttering in the sea breeze give this slightly remote island an exotic feel. Stay in one of the many historic homes, now serving as bed and breakfast inns. Take a carriage ride around the historic district. Sail along the river or kayak in the tidal marshes. If you're in the mood to explore, travel to the surrounding barrier islands including Hilton Head (not my favorite place, thank you. Too crowded), Hunting Island, Picnkney Island, Bear Island Natural Wildlife Area, Lady Island, Parris Island, and more. Beaufort is just an hour and a half from Charleston, an hour and a half from Edisto Beach, and about an hour from Savannah, GA, so it's a great place to headquarter if you plan to visit those cities during your stay.My remaining picks for charming cities are, in order: Murrells Inlet, Georgetown, and shabby chic, Pawleys Island.
In other words, if you're looking for a place to visit this summer, South Carolina has a lot to choose from. I know. I lived there for four years and though I tried, I couldn't experience everything this wonderful state has to offer.
SC Aquarium, Sunset on Folly Beach, and the ACE Basin
We love Charleston. We love aquariums. So why haven't we gone to the South Carolina Aquarium before now? We haven't seen it. We thought about it on several occasions, but upon arriving in Charleston, history, architecture, food, or landmarks snagged our attention from the attraction one has to look for to find. We remembered to do so on this occasion (since it was our destination) and though we had to make a few turns to get there, after turning east on Calhoun Street and passing the Holiday Inn that sits on the spot where John L. Girardeau ministered to the slaves at Zion Presbyterian Church, we found it.
The top floor of the aquarium houses the majority of the exhibits and, if I caught this correctly, the exhibits focus on either South Carolina, or the Carolinas as a whole. We visited "The Mountains", "The Piedmont", "The Marshlands", and "The Coast" displays. We also went outside on the observation walkway that overlooks the Cooper River. The lower level plays host to the "Secrets of the Amazon" exhibit, the gift shop, and the Great Ocean Tank, a two-story exhibit that allows one to see marine life ranging from snappers to sharks in a simulated natural environment. I also hoped to see the sea turtle hospital housed in the basement. So after paying admission ($16.00/adult at this writing) we went inside and discovered Kelly, the director of the hospital and the person we needed to speak to, was somewhere on the ocean releasing Lighthouse, the turtle who came back to shore after his initial release.
Yay for Lighthouse, drats for me. We enjoyed ourselves nonetheless.
We still had plenty of day left after we finished touring the aquarium, so I suggested a trip to Folly Beach to watch the sun set. The majority of the beach crowd goes home around five, so when we arrived shortly after that, we immediately found a parking spot in one of the small beach access parking lots built between two rental houses. After paying the parking piper, we planted ourselves on the sand.
I love the mountains, but I love the beach a tad bit more. I love to stick my toes in the sand and watch the roaring waves tumbling toward the shore. I love the feel of salt air brushing around me, and watching sea gulls and pelicans float above the water. I love the beach houses lining the beach, the sea shells littering the sand, the primrose growing on fenced dunes, and the feeling of peace I get when I'm blessed enough to have the opportunity to enjoy it all.
And when I remembered the turtle nests, I loved it even more.
Each May, countless people hold their breath in anticipation and wait to see how many sea turtles will pull themselves from the ocean and lay their eggs in one of the remaining dunes on the South Carolina shore. Loggerheads (Caretta Caretta), Green Turtles, on occasion, Kemp Ridley's, and according to the SCDNR Marine Turtle Conservation Program, the ancient leviathan known as the Leatherback turtle all find their way back to the beaches where they hatched, and continue the cycle by laying over a hundred eggs in the dunes above the tide line. When I remembered this, we pulled ourselves off the sand and took a walk along the beach. Within minutes, we spotted the telltale posts and orange tape that indicated the presence of a nest. I couldn't contain my excitement when I saw the sign: Caution! Loggerhead Nest
And then we saw another one!
Turtle teams on the Isle of Palms and Sullivans Island are keeping an eye on seven nests, and nesting season just began last month. The incubation period for loggerhead turtle eggs is around fifty-five days, so beginning in July, hundreds of tiny turtles will break through the sand and start the scramble. Some will perish on the roads after following forgotten lights on beach houses. Some will become a meal for birds or ghost crabs. Others will actually make it to the water where the chance of survival is just about as high as on the shore. I've heard that only one or two turtles from each nest will survive to adulthood. But twenty years later, those turtles will return to South Carolina to lay their eggs in the dunes. Let's hope the dunes are still around for them to find.
And so ended the day. We slept well, and after we checked out of our hotel, we made a few pit stops on the way home. The first was the Edisto Unit of the ACE Basin National Wildlife Refuge. FYI, it's closed on Sunday (I don't have a problem with that, but next time I'll check operating hours before we go.) We tried to look at the plant life under the trees lining the road, but the mosquitoes finally found us. I took a couple of pictures and jumped in the car. The skeeters dived bombed the Durango. We did this little routine several times as we traveled back to 174. Then we decided to go to the Basin's Combahee Unit, located off Hwy 17. A sign pointing to Bear Island caught our eye. We turned and drove countless miles south, past trees and marshland. Talk about solitude! Finally, we arrived at Bear Island. It was closed.
Oh well. We found lots of neat flowers, saw lots of neat critters, and had a great time overall.