NC's Natural Communities, Part I: Green Swamp

I sometimes wonder what John Lawson saw when he made his way up from "Charles Town" (Charleston) to survey the Carolinas in 1700. To my understanding, he would have been privy to the sight of herds of buffalo (not us) roaming through pillows of golden grasses typical of the longleaf pine savannas that blanketed the region. Rivers and creeks filled with inky water cutting swaths though the soft sand. Untamed clumps of brambles and bushes the natives called Pocosins. Depending on the time of year, fields of Pink Lady Slippers or sunflowers gently rocking in the wind. What did he think when he saw thousands of ducks, geese and majestic swans swirling over wide, shallow lakes, or when he watched a blue heron glide over golden marshes in a silence broken only by the croaking of frogs or the call of the now extinct Carolina Parakeet?

We got a glimpse of a small portion of what he may have seen last week when we visited Green Swamp and again yesterday when we visited Lake Mattamuskeet on the Albemarle-Pamlico Peninsula. And oh what a sight we saw.

Those passing by Green Swamp, located in the southeastern most region of North Carolina, may think they were looking at a scraggly woods in need of development. What looks like overgrown grass grows beneath tall, longleaf pine trees spread generously apart. But the too-small area is what the Nature Conservancy calls "the country’s finest examples of longleaf pine savannas."

Five members of CarolinasAdventures hiking group met in the parking lot off Green Swamp Road and for the next several hours, roamed through the savanna (pun intended) with resident botanist, Kelvin Taylor pointing out flowers, the tangled thickets of the Pocosin, an area he called Ecological succession (the gradual replacement of one community by another) sterile pine tree trees in that area--hence the reason for the succession--and more. I always enjoy these outing. In addition to great company, we always learn something that helps us better appreciate North Carolina's natural communities and the efforts to preserve them. And they're in desperate need of preservation. Poachers and development are slowly eating away at these resources. A multitude of Venus Flytraps and pitcher plants once grew in abundance. Now, we had to search carefully to find a few of the flytraps and a delicate flower that I love, the Grass of Parnassus.

I'm not a botanist so I can't address the importance of the longleaf pine savanna to nature and to North Carolina, but I do know it's part of this state's past, it's a refuge for rare and common species, and it can teach us about plant life and this type of ecosystem. In addition to our little band, a group of students were visiting Green Swamp that day and we had the chance to overhear the instructor point out various parts of the plant life they studied. In doing so, this instructor is helping to preserve Green Swamp for the future. I'm sure John Lawson would have been pleased.

For more information on Green Swamp, click here to access the Nature Conservancy's site. To learn about the effects poaching on Green Swamp and similar habitats, go to www.nature.org/magazine/winter2006/misc/art19274.html

(KT, thanks for the link. Your timing couldn't have been better.)

Photos of this trip are in the previous post. Click here to view.

Next: The Birds of Lake Mattamuskeet

Howell Woods Environmental Learning Center

Howell Woods Environmental Learning Center:
A CarolinasAdventures Learning Experience


East coast members of the CarolinasAdventures hiking group banded together for their first official group hike last weekend. Our destination: Howell Woods Learning Center in Johnston County, NC. An apt name for this obscure treasure, and I couldn't have chosen a more knowledgeable (and amiable) group of people to experience it with.

According to their website and various brochures, Howell Woods is part of Johnston County Community College, which uses the 2,800 plus acres as an outdoor classroom. Fortunately, the college graciously allows the public to use the land for hiking, camping, horseback riding (byoh), bird watching, and hunting. There is a fee for hunting, horseback riding, and camping, but hiking is free.

We rendezvoused at the Learning Center's parking lot shortly after 9:00 A.M. After signing in at the Center as required, we took a few photos of HW's permanent residents--a turkey vulture, an owl, and two red-tailed hawks that can no longer survive in the wild--and then began the hike.

The closest trailhead is located several yards behind the Learning Center, in the direction of the Savannah Pond. Using the trail map we found on the website, we hopped on the Leopold Loop and slowly worked our way into the woods.

Though a bit drab this time of year, sometimes desolate, and what I called "crunchy", Howell Woods is nonetheless fascinating. They have incredibly diverse habitats ranging from arid to soggy (longleaf pine savannah, bottomland hardwood, mixed pine, a variety of wetlands, and more.) We literally walked from a savannah to a cypress swamp, passing a grass and shrub area as we went. Even more incredible, their brochure not only lists the trails, the trail length, and the surface type, it also lists the dominant habitat in that area. Unfortunately, the brochure wasn't the best resource to use to navigate those trails. When we thought we were heading for one area, we ended up in another. One road should have been on one side of the woods, but somehow it intersected with a road in another quadrant. Consequently, we ended up meandering a lot. According to the brochure, there are over twenty-five miles of hiking trails and paved roads in Howell Woods, so we meandered quite a bit.

But we stopped often to explore as we went. We saw birds, large and small, flitting through the tall grasses of the savannah and through trees. Three turkey buzzards circling overhead caught our attention several times. As we hiked, our resident botanist, KT, pointed out various non-flowering plants and trees and encouraged us to identify them. He asked us questions about the habitat we were walking through and how we knew the type (i.e. a savannah or a mixed pine) without sneaking peeks at the brochure to find the answer. We stopped to take pictures of the first spotted wildflower of the season—a violet that should have been named Brittany for all the photos we snapped of it. We also took time to investigate a swamp with clear water, one with stagnant water, and a pond so still we wondered if the shocking shade of putrid green of what turned out to be duckweed hid ground or water.

Howell Woods also has a diverse wildlife population. We saw deer tracks on a number of occasions, tracks that may have belonged to a raccoon, and ruts we decided had been created by a few members of the feral pig population. Wild turkeys, gray squirrels, and waterfowl also reside in the woods. Because Howell Woods states their focus is "Conservation through Education", I was surprised to learn they allow hunting on the premises. I'm having a hard time understanding that, and how monies collected from hunting related activities can, as one brochure states, be "used to fund the ongoing operations benefiting the wildlife/habitat management...." Can someone clarify this for me? (Someone did. Please see comments below.)

The trail system at Howell Woods consists of gravel roads intertwining with boardwalk, sand, and mowed paths. The street signs at the corner of several trails reminded me of those at Dupont Forest in Brevard, where individuals and organizations wrenched back that land as it was being developed into an upscale neighborhood. While the signs do detract from the outdoor experience, they are helpful, especially when used in conjunction with the hybrid satellite photo/trail maps signs, which are posted at several intersections.

As mentioned earlier, we began the hike at the Leopold Loop. From there, we connected to Bartram Trail, Diversity Dr, Longleaf Ln, Wild Turkey Ln, and Hannah Creek Trail, which took us to the far edge of Howell Woods. Somewhere along the line, we stopped at a picnic area. From there, we hiked up Cornell to the BW Wells trail, and then attempted to turn up Thoreau, where a trail full of water hampered our progress.

Note: attempts to circumvent the watery path of Thoreau will result in bushwacking through what KT referred to as wicked prickles, the sting of which feels like thorns until one encounter the thorns. After several minutes of attempting to play the tough hiker, only to find more water and more prickles, we backtracked to BW Wells, and then took Plantation and Howell Dr to the Learning Center (which was, to our surprise, only three quarters of a mile away.)

If you plan to hike through Howell Woods, wear comfortable hiking shoes and pants to protect your legs from bugs and brambles. During bug season, wear a long sleeve shirt or take plenty of bug spray. On second thought, take plenty of bug spray period. Also, watch out for snakes. We encountered a long, grouchy black snake on one of the trails.

Howell Woods is an experience. And because of the sharing of knowledge by the participants on this hike, we not only received lessons in a variety of subjects such as plant life and habitats (pop quizzes and all), but the multiple observations too numerous to mention made by everyone throughout the four-hour hike enhanced this outing experience ten-fold. Don't know individuals familiar with birds, plants, or North Carolina's natural communities? No worries. Howell Woods offers several programs including Plant and Tree ID, Bird Banding, No-Trace Camping, and a course on habitats. For more information, check out their website at http://www.johnstoncc.edu/howellwoods/programs.htm

Howell Woods is located at 6601 Devil's Racetrack Rd in Four Oaks. From I-95, take Exit 90 and go south on 701. Turn left on Stricklands Crossroad, and then left on Devils Racetrack. For more information on Howell Woods, go to

www.johnstoncc.edu/howellwoods/about.htm and
www.johnstoncc.edu/howellwoods/HabitatDiversityTrailBrochure.pdf

Great Lake, Cedar Point Tideland Trail in Croatan National Forest

Vocabulary for this report:

• Estuary--Water passage where the tide meets the river current (or where freshwater meets saltwater)


• Marsh: Freshwater--Same as saltwater marsh, sans salt.


• Marsh: Salt--Flat land subject to overflow by salt water. (Kimberli's definition: Picturesque "islands" in shallow water near the water's edge. characterized by tall grasses growing in a thick muck often referred to as Pluff Mud. Oyster beds are often seen in the pluff at low tide.


• Maritime--Of, related to, or bordering on the sea.


• Pocosin Lake--Upland swamp of the coastal plain of the SW USA, or "freshwater wetlands dominated by evergreen shrubs, scattered pond pines, and bay trees".


• Pond Pines--Haven't a clue. I think it's a tree.


• Unimproved--Not tilled, built on, or otherwise improved for use.


• Unmarked--Devoid of signage that might give a person a clue as to where they are, or what direction they should go.

Our time in Eastern North Carolina is proving to be both interesting and informative. While our previous outings introduced us to ENC's history and charm, our latest outing flat out challenged us to learn about the unique environment existing along the state's renowned coastline.

Though we've traveled to the aoutheast portion of ENC twice since our arrival, we've yet to adequately explore much of what this region has to offer. Since the roads and restaurants are fast becoming familiar to us, we decided to get a cursory glance of additional interests before moving northward, so we traveled to Croatan National Forest, situated on 150,000 acres between the Neuse, Trent, and White Oak Rivers.

Most of my information about Croatan comes from my exploring north carolina's natural areas, book. Descriptions of wetlands, swamps, natural ponds and lakes, estuaries, a maritime forest, carnivorous plants, and boardwalks over salt marshes captivated me. I wanted to see it all, but with our short Saturday schedule and a three-hour (round-trip) drive, I had to settle for just two destinations. Our first stop: Great Lake. 

IMPORTANT NOTE: taking a small car with low clearance and no four-wheel drive to Great Lake is a big mistake. But I'll get to that in a minute.

Finding Croatan is easy. It's located just south of New Bern on Hwy 70. Finding a way into Croatan is a bit more difficult. Finding Great Lake when one isn't sure how to get into Croatan is almost impossible.

I am The Navigator, and with a good map in hand, I usually do a pretty good job of it. I know even-numbered Interstates and highways indicate the road travels east to west, and odd number goes north to south. I know Interstate exit signs usually correlate to exit numbers (not in all states, but most) and I know it's a good idea to familiarize oneself with the legend on a map to differentiate between two-lane roads and state highways. When I had consulted my worn atlas and didn't find any roads through the forest, I went online. What I missed when I printed the map I found on the NCNatural website was the fact that the "roads" on the map were a faint gray. The legend didn't mention it, so I didn't think about it. Mistake.
There's a reason why the road is faint gray. The road IS gray. Highway or NC or whatever 1100, which cuts through Croatan Forest is unimproved, but it was paradise compared to the rutted sand dune we had to travel over to Great Lake. If I ever get the dings from the gravel out of my car, I'll have to change the struts.
Great Lake is located in the middle of the forest and is a shocking surprise. I'm still trying to get a handle on whether it's a Pocosin lake or if water from pocosins drain into Great Lake. Either way, it was breathtaking. The view from the very secluded parking lot showed waves blowing across a beautiful deep, dark blue lake, like the deep waters of the sea. It was the sapphire in a rock, the diamond in coal, and totally inaccessible without a boat.

We considered walking around the lake in search of a clearing, but Croatan Forest is open to hunters, and this time of year, we passed plenty on the way in. I wore colors that would distinguish me from a deer or a bear in the woods, but why take the chance? So we enjoyed what we could see of the lake, and went to our next destination, Cedar Point Tideland Trail.

The 1.5-mile Cedar Point trail snakes around the White Oak River estuary. I'd read about this area while doing research on salt marshes and was pleased to see it in person. I'm still not sure if both salt- and freshwater marshes are present; I'm still trying to figure out how to tell the difference between the two (other than location. Surely the grass isn't the same in both.)

Unfortunately, Cedar Point was also difficult to find. Since my exploring north carolina book takes explorers on different tours, directions begin from the previous stop, which is Whitehouse Forks Road. And of course, that road isn't well marked. The directions provided on the website where I found the map say, "It can be found by following the (boat ramp) signs on NC Hwy 58, north of it's junction with NC Hwy 24." That would work if NC posted signs for the boat ramp.
So…Kimberli's directions to Cedar Point Tideland Trail: From Hwy 24, travel approximately one mile north on Hwy 58. Turn left on VFW Road. Go straight until you see the parking lot.

Cedar Point trail is a delightful, easy walk and very picturesque. We walked on a dirt trail through a pine-hardwood forest (so says my book) and on boardwalks over the marshes. We saw a white crane and a Blue Heron. The sun shone on the waters of the White Oak River and it was one of those great coastal moments that make the hassle of getting there worth it. I wish we could have stayed longer.

We still have several destinations to visit in Croatan such as Patsy Pond Natural Area and Nature Trail, Haywood Landing at White Oak River, the Island Creek Forest Walk, and more.

Definitions are from Merriam Webster Dictionary and the American Heritage Dictionary

Dupont State Forest

Today, we visited Dupont State Forest near Flat Rock, NC. I've heard so many good things about this place, and it was figuratively killing me that we hadn't had the time to go and explore the trails and waterfalls, and though we spent several hours there, we missed more than we saw.

Getting there
On several occasions, I'd seen the sign pointing toward Dupont Forest while traveling down Hwy 64 near Brevard, but I've been told that isn't the best entrance. Since I neglected to write down decent instructions, we went to the park's website and chose the recommended route: over NC 225, through Flat Rock, and up Dupont Road. After passing the Triple Falls parking lot, we stopped at the Buck Forest parking lot and began our hike. Walk. Adventure.

At the Park
Though it was obvious the Buck Forest entrance led into the woods, we felt we missed a main entrance somewhere. Undaunted, we grabbed our packs and walking sticks, and began our stroll down Buck Forest Road. At some point in its history, this area had been purchased by a developer, but was wrested from the carpetbaggers by caring people who wished to preserve its beauty (how's that for unbiased journalism ;o) Consequently, one can see road signs and utility markers along the trail. Still, the presence of a wide, gravel road leading through the forest surprised me. It felt like a stroll down a neighborhood street, not a hike.

Our first stop was High Falls. After admiring the falls from the gravel road, we walked down steep steps, over gnarled roots, and down slippery rocks to the base of the falls where we took several pictures and admired the wildflowers in bloom.

High Falls from a distance. Covered bridge is in the background

We left High Falls and walked down Covered Bridge Road to the--yes!--covered bridge.



While there, we encountered the first of many horseback riders, which caused no small amount of envy. The second group of riders asked us to take their picture, and we grabbed a great shot of them in front of the covered bridge. Shortly after, a dozen or so additional riders decided to cross the creek below the covered bridge. Understand there are not only signs posted stating No Entry, but this area is located at the top of High Falls. I can't emphasize the danger of their actions (please see my Waterfall Warning post.)

We said goodbye to the riders and hopped back on Buck Forest Road, then turned on Imaging Lake Road. We traveled in silence at times, sometimes lost in thought, sometimes just enjoying the tranquility of the tall trees rustling in the breeze around us. Other times, we hunted for wildflowers. After strolling for awhile, we turned back and took a break. Our resting spot was a short wooden bridge across from a prolific black or raspberry bush. Afterwards, we walked back up Buck Forest and stopped at Triple Falls, where we kicked off our shoes and relaxed.

We missed much of what Dupont has to offer, so a return trip is in order. An enjoyable trip overall, especially after visiting two waterfalls and a covered bridge.

For directions to Dupont, go to www.dupontforest.com/directions.asp

To learn more about Dupont State Forest, go to www.dupontforest.com/