An Interesting Day in Charleston

I'm taking a break from the Bryson City series for a guest post written by a local author and the post below on Charleston, which is of a more personal nature. This past weekend, we traveled to the lowcountry for a wedding, and while there, we spent a few hours in the historic district. Just to visit, of course, but I also needed a few photos for a novella I'm writing.

It turned into one of the most interesting visits we've had in terms of people. In that short amount of time, we saw two bridal parties posing for photos, the Google Map car, a guy wearing a kilt, and we were asked to take photos of a trio that turned out to be a private guided tour for a cancer survivor. For once, the goings on in Charleston caught my attention more than the history and scenery did, which says a lot. So of course, I had to take pictures.

Bride #1 We spotted this group at a church on Meeting St, but while we were meandering around the Battery, they showed up in this great bus for more photos.

Also at the Battery, a guy in a kilt. This was shortly after the "No" vote for Scottish independence, so I jokingly suggested perhaps the lad was hoping to borrow a cannon from the folks who did manage to break from the crown.

As we were heading toward the only parking spot we found, we spotted the Google Map car. This is the second time we've crossed paths with it while in SC. The driver later showed up at Brookgreen Gardens in Murrells Inlet. I maintain he uses mapping as an excuse to vacation in South Carolina.

I went to the Battery because I needed photos of the gazebo in White Point Gardens for my novella. In the story, a scene takes place there on a rainy, November morning. I'll have to make due with photos taken on a cloudy September afternoon.

I think I can live with that. Before we left, we took a stroll along the Promenade, where I managed to get a photo of one of the most photographed homes along the Battery with a horse and carriage out front. 

If only that car hadn't been parked there. After leaving the Battery, we made our way to the west side of the historic district to find the Old City Jail. A scene in the aforementioned novella takes place in this overlooked piece of history, which is being restored by the American College of the Building Arts. It's wonderfully creepy, so how in the world did I fit this into a novella? Once upon a time, executions were held in the courtyard. One particular (and fictional) hanging plays an important role in the story.

Another scene takes place in St. Michael's Church, which also plays another role in the novella. While taking photos that I hope to use for the cover, we spotted Bride #2 of the day, and another interesting piece of American History.

So sweet!

Children, this is called a "Pay Phone"

St Michael's steeple

During the drive to the wedding, I snapped off a few photos of Charleston from the bridge.

I love this town. It never ceases to mesmerize me.

Charleston's Provost Dungeon

The main goal of our recent trip to Charleston was to visit Boone Hall Plantation. But while in the Lowcountry, I took the opportunity to do a little bit of novel research. And to do that, we went into Charleston's Historic District to tour the Provost Dungeon and old Exchange.

It would be a short, easy tour. Just confirm a couple of points of my research and then find some Lowcountry cuisine.

Old Exchange

We parked behind the building--or perhaps it was the front. What is now the rear of the building once faced the marinas along the Cooper River, and the ships involved in trade. After walking around to the entrance on Broad Street, we climbed one side of the split staircase and went inside.

Once there, I received a bit of a research jolt. Since revolutionary and local planter Isaac Haynes had been hung by the British on the grounds in 1781, I'd hoped all hangings had been performed on the premises. As it turns out, this building, completed in 1771, was used as an exchange and customs house, and the low, arched-ceiling ground floor as a prison only during the British occupation. While the information put a snag in my research, it also threw me into the 1770s, and the American colonists' fight for independence, for as I soon learned*:

• The prisoners held there included three signers of the Declaration of Independence
• Tea seized during protests against the famous Tea Act was stored in the dungeon
• Upstairs in the Great Hall, delegates to the Continental congress were elected
• South Carolina declared independence from England on the very steps we used to enter the Exchange

There's more. So much, I'm on information overload every time I research the Exchange. We've passed this building numerous times during visits to Charleston, never knowing we were passing a huge chunk of South Carolina's, and America's, history.

More research for later. But for now, I had another reason for touring the dungeon on this trip. I had to see the wall.

During her early days of settlement, Charleston, then called Charles Town, was surrounded by a protective brick wall. The east bordered the Cooper River. The west, what's now known as Meeting Street, and the city stretched several blocks north and south of Broad Street. Maps of the original walled portion of the city hung in the dungeon. Click each photo to see a larger version.

Original walled city located in the SE quadrant
of the peninsula now known as Charleson

"View" from the harbor along the Cooper River

In the center of the wall along the river's edge, a portion of the wall ballooned into the water. This "half-moon battery" is the present-day location of the Exchange and Provost dungeon. Thanks to archeology and preservation efforts, a section of the wall is visible inside the dungeon.

As amazing as it is in a photo, I was more amazed to stand on a catwalk over dank water, in a room where America's revolutionaries had been imprisoned in their fight for freedom, and stare down at the wall built by Charleston's founders. If you have the opportunity to visit Charleston, I highly recommend a tour of this historic site.

More more information on the Exchange and Provost Dungeon, go to:
*www.ccpl.org/content.asp?action=detail&catID=6055&id=15796&parentID=5750

If you're wondering if I eventually learned where criminals were hung, I did, thanks to our dungeon tour guide. Executions were performed on a gallows at the Old City Jail. The castle-like structure is the most ominous building I've seen in Charleston, and the perfect setting for the fictional hanging that occurs in my story:

It's currently closed to the public, but at the moment, visitors can tour the interior during one company's ghost tour. Next time.

Boone Hall Plantation

A dusty road lined with massive, shady oaks, heavy with moss. On the right, horses graze in a grassy field. On the left, eight small, brick houses, emptied by war and emancipation.

This is the first glimpse visitors have of Boone Hall Plantation, one of America's "oldest, working plantations", and a piece of Charleston's history.

Though Boone Hall is a favorite destinations for those visiting Charleston, this was our first look at the famous Avenue of Oaks and the plantation grounds that date back to the late 1600s. 

At the time of this writing, the admission fee is just under $20 per adult, but our AAA membership lowered the amount by 10%. The admission granted entrance and covered a variety of tours and a discount on a scrumptious lunch made, in part, with produce grown on the plantation.

After reserving a spot on the tour of the house, we took a motorized coach ride around the grounds. There we learned the plantation was once far larger than it is now, that it produced indigo, rice, then bricks, which were used in buildings in Charleston. At some point, pecan trees were planted, and those not ravaged by time or hurricanes produce pecans to this day.

In addition to the old pecan grove, we saw the stables and the old cotton gin. Passed woods that were once crop land; fields of corn that, in the autumn will become a corn maze; ponds, and marshlands.

And scenery left behind from Alex Haley's Queen, starring Halle Berry:

As it turns out, Boone Hall Plantation is the backdrop for several television shows and movies, and the house was used in Nicholas Spark's movie version of The Notebook.

After the coach tour, we gathered on the porch of that house with other guests and took our scheduled tour. We were immediately surprised to learn it had been built in 1936, replacing an old farmhouse that existed during the war.

Afterwards, we walked down "Slave Street", the row of cabins that were once home to the plantation's slaves. At the time of our visit, each cabin displayed different aspects of slavery, from work and life, to emancipation and civil rights. At one end of the "street" visitors can listen to a History Talk on slave life, and at the other, they can sit in the shade and watch a performance at the Gullah Theater.

As tragic as slavery was (and still is, since human trafficking, as it's now called, still exists despite the lessons of the past) it is history. Our history. And it can't be denied or ignored. I'm grateful that places such as Boone Hall Plantation and the old Slave Mart in downtown Charleston take pains to share that reality and celebrate the Gullah culture that so influences the Lowcountry. But I was dismayed and saddened that while touring Slave Street, both my husband and I were greeted with open hostility by visitors of that culture. One teenager girl, while glaring at me, even commented on the presence of a "white person". And what should have been an opportunity for enlightenment became a source of division. I don't know if ours was a typical encounter, I've not spoken to others who have visited the cabins, but because of it, we'll likely avoid this part of the tour in the future.

After several hours of soaking in this Lowcountry destination, we took advantage of our discount at the nearby Boone Hall Farms Market Cafe, where we enjoyed a lunch that tasted even better than it looked, and stocked up on our favorite Charleston tea.

Despite our encounter at the cabins, it's easy to see why Boone Hall Plantation is high on the list of places to visit while in the Lowcountry. Some tours are seasonal or contingent on weather, so for more information on Boone Hall, including special events such as the Taste of Charleston, Scottish Games, the Pumpkin Patch, the Oyster Festival, and much more, go to  http://boonehallplantation.com/

Touring Charleston

When my daughter heard we were visiting Charleston, South Carolina again, she asked, in a voice tired of asking the question, "Haven't you seen all there is to see down there?"

Somehow, no. Though we've taken carriage and walking tours, read articles and field guides, and had long discussions with others familiar with the city's history, time and events that shaped South Carolina and the United States have packed so much into the settlement established in 1680, I can't learn it all despite my efforts to do so. But I keep trying.

How?

Tours

Visitors to Charleston have at their disposal, a variety of informative carriage and walking tours. Most companies offer several routes, so if I take a carriage ride in the morning and hop onto another later that afternoon, chances are I'll see a different side of the city. Different streets. Different buildings. More history. Some companies also offer architecture tours. Others focus on photography or Charleston's ghostly past.

Self-guided tours are also available. Whatever I choose, I know I'll learn about the city.

For a different perspective, I can also choose a guided tour of the harbor once blockaded by the British, Blackbeard, and then Union forces. Travel to Fort Sumter, or take a watery ghost tour to learn even more about the city that once aspired to become the Queen of the South.

Museums

As I mentioned in a previous post, Charleston has a creature called Museum Mile. On this occasion, we spent time in Stop 2: the Charleston Museum. The artifacts, reproductions, old photos, clothing, maps and more not only overwhelmed us in their number and explanations, they taught us more about eras we were familiar with—and some we weren't. I took notes and photos (no flash, please!) and said what every other visitor probably said as they walked through the exit doors: I need to go back.

There are fifteen stops in the Museum Mile in a one-mile range. And that's not counting the twelve churches located in the historic district. Just more to see on return visits.

Reference Materials

I also like to tour Charleston at home. On each of our trips, we make it a habit to peruse the regional section of the closest Barnes & Noble. While in Charleston, we also stop in the Waldenbooks located at the corner of Meeting and Market. There, I generally find books I wouldn't have known to buy. On this visit, to expand my Charleston collection and my knowledge of the Holy City, I purchased Charleston: Then and Now by W. Chris Phelps, Charleston Icons, and A Walking Tour of The Walled City (Kindle download). At the Charleston Museum, I bought The Scourging Wrath of God: Early Hurricanes in Charleston, 1700 - 1804.

No doubt, I'll buy more on our next visit. As I've learned, there's always something new to see in Charleston, and I love touring the city in Lowcountry style.

Books: Two SC Lowcountry Resources

Every time I think I have a solid grasp of places to visit around the Carolinas, I hear about a dozen more, so I'm always searching for field guides with information on unexplored destinations. During the last two trips to South Carolina's Lowcountry, I found the following treasures.

Lowcountry Daytrips: Plantations, Gardens, and a Natural History of the Charleston Region by William P. Baldwin III

After providing an informative introduction on the Lowcountry, the author divides the SC coast from Murrells Inlet to the Savannah River into eleven daytrip tours, using Charleston as the starting point (of course!) Within each tour, Mr Baldwin directs visitors to several points of interest in the area, and includes history, facts, and directions for each location. Some places, such as Magnolia Plantation and Gardens, are well-known. Some I've never heard of, and still others, such as Bushy Park and the Indigo vats near the Cooper River, I wouldn't have thought to visit.

A source of new places to explore and oodles of history made Lowcountry Daytrips a great find, and worth the ten dollars we spent.

George Washington's Guide to the Waccamaw Neck and Georgetown by Sharon Carlisle

A spiral-bound book that guides visitors on the route George Washington took along the Waccamaw Neck during his famous Southern Tour in 1791 sounds a bit cheesy. But in addition to providing blurbs from President Washington's journal—giving readers a glimpse into the early days of South Carolina's history, government, and landscape—Ms. Carlisle points out places newer guides may not include, such as the Wachesaw Landing, where the Waccamaw Indians once hunted and buried their own; Litchfield Plantation; Hobcaw Barony; a one-room schoolhouse; the ruins of Prince Frederick's Church, and more.

Using fantastic detail, Ms. Carlisle shares her knowledge of the history, landscape, legend, and culture along the 30 x 3 mile strip of land south of Myrtle Beach. She even includes photos.

The book was published in 1991, so some information may be a tad out of date—famous Murrells Inlet resident Mickey Spillane is referred to in the present tense—but the book is loaded with history and places to visit. The only thing I don't like about it is the lack of clear directions. However, I now know what to look for.

Both books will go on the Carolina reference shelf with others I've mentioned in the past. For a list, check out my "Guides to Help You Find Your Way" post.

Touring the SC Lowcountry

Charming one-room houses with piazzas overlooking lush courtyards. Churches with columns, pediments, and soaring steeples. Buildings drenched with history. All and more were on our mind when we traveled to South Carolina's Lowcountry for a self-guided tour of Charleston.

Friend and new author Shannon McNear accompanied us on the excursion. Shannon not only sets her stories in the Lowcountry, she steeps herself in historical research, going as far as visiting archeological sites to get a sense of the layout. She also holds what artifacts she's permitted to handle to feel the weight and texture of the material. Her knowledge and resources enhanced our tour, as did her sparking personality and sense of humor.

Using Shannon's worn pamphlet, we began our tour at the open-air market on Market Street. Built around 1841, the market is filled with vendors selling hats, duplications of historical prints, famous "Sweetgrass" baskets and more. After purchasing a few items, we walked down Church Street to the first stop on our list, St Philip's.

A national landmark, St Philip's dates back to 1681. It's a favorite for Church historians and those photographing quintessential Charleston. On this occasion, our goal wasn't the building itself, but the cemetery on its grounds and across the street. Charleston's cemeteries are history books. One doesn't have to walk far to see the names Alston, Pringle, Pinckney and others who did much to shape Charleston, and South Carolina's history.

Though one does need to search for headstones in places they wouldn't think to look. We found markers embedded in sidewalks and running alongside the walls.

Across the street from the church, adjacent to the auxiliary cemetery, I spotted something we'd missed on earlier visits. A sign on a tall, black wrought-iron gate that read "Pirates Courtyard". A shadowed walkway so narrow, two could not walk down it side-by-side led to a grassy area barely visible behind the building. But was it public or private? That question kept us from stepping foot on the pirates' rest. I've yet to find an explanation on the web. However, this spot is listed on at least one ghost tour, so we'll check it out during our next visit.

For information on the history of St. Philip's, go to www.nps.gov/history/nr/travel/charleston/stp.htm

We continued our tour of churches and cemeteries, houses and alleys, inspecting the interior of St. Michael's and the Huguenot church. The exterior of tenement houses built in the 1600s. The restaurant on Unity Alley where George Washington ate during his visit to the Lowcountry. The oldest homes in the city, noting stucco covering brick in some places, and where visible, the straight mortar between bricks that seemed to be too small for their slots.

At lunchtime, we stopped at Carolina's Bistro where we discussed history and storyline while dining on Cauliflower soup, truffle fries and pasta. Refreshed, we took up our tour again, and were soon reminded history is on every corner of Charleston, even in the people we encountered in the streets.

On our way back to Market Street, we met a man doing repair work on one of Charleston's historic churches. He took time to explain why the mortar joints of many homes and brick fences looked so straight (leveled with a razor) and that stucco covered some walls because the soft, oyster-shell-and-limestone bricks slowly disintegrate in the Lowcountry climate. A beneficial stop not mentioned in the tour book. Minutes later, we happened on another vendor selling the famous Sweetgrass baskets. Just one of many ties that bind Charleston's history to the present.

 

Shannon chats with a basket maker

For those unfamiliar, this particular art of basketweaving originated in African. The descendants of slaves who brought the art with them continue the tradition, selling them in the market, streets, or booths along Highway 17 as previous generations had, though many now sell their baskets online. The pricetag often shocks tourists, but the process is time consuming, often taking twelve to twenty-four hours depending on the size of the basket, and all baskets are handmade. It's interesting to note that a former missionary I once worked with gave me a basket she'd purchased in Uganda. It is worked exactly as some of the baskets Charleston weavers make today.

For more information on the history and cultural importance of these baskets, click here for an abstract. I also recommend Mary Alice Monroe's novel, Sweetgrass.

Hours after beginning our tour, we said goodbye to Shannon and headed up Highway 17, taking a quick detour at the Waterfront Park near Patriot's Point for a shot of the Ravenel Bridge.

But we weren't finished yet. When traveling between Charleston and Myrtle Beach, we love to stop at two jewels in the Lowcountry's crown: Pawleys Island and Murrells Inlet. Off season is a great time to visit "The Hammock Coast". Hotel prices are lower, camping spots more likely to be available, and more sand is visible on the beach. Though it appears bars have more of a presence in Murrells Inlet than they had in previous visits, Huntington Beach State Park, Brookgreen Gardens, the Marshwalk and your choice of seafood restaurants makes Murells Inlet worth the stop.
Note: if you're on a budget, check out the restaurant's menu before walking inside. On a recommendation, we ate at Lee's Inlet Kitchen. The food is great, and their hush puppies addicting, but at this writing, entrees range from $17.95 to $36.95.

A final note: We usually avoid Myrtle Beach. I prefer trail getaways to crowds and traffic. But since it is low season, we decided to explore on this occasion, and I found I'd been suffering from a case of not seeing the forest for the kitschy trees. In addition to numerous accesses to long stretches of sandy beach, Myrtle Beach is home to a lovely state park. It's now on our To-Do list. For more information, go to South Carolina's Myrtle Beach State Park site.

ACE Basin National Wildlife Refuge

We enjoyed our trips to Hunting Island State Park and Beaufort, but we had much to learn on this adventure, and I hoped to do that at the ACE National Wildlife Refuge.

Unfortunately, the day after we arrived in the Lowcountry, the sky burst open and a deluge drenched an already soaked land. Several low-lying areas around the Carolinas were either under a flood watch, or experienced flooding. Consequently, when we arrived at the refuge's Visitors Center, we encountered locked doors (apparently, they weren't expecting visitors on a cold rainy day in January. Clearly, they don't know us.) We also noticed deep mud puddles dotting the dirt roads. Without the Durango, we didn't have the clearance or the four-wheel drive necessary to tackle that hurdle.

Not that it helped us in the past...

I wish I could have walked inside the Visitors Center. From preliminary research on the Basin, I learned a South Carolina treasure is hidden in the heart of the refuge, and the pictures didn't prepare me for the sight of a historic plantation house surrounded by enormous moss-laced oak trees.

I love old plantations. Not for the tragic history they often represent, but because of the architectural wonders they usually are, and Grove Plantation House is a beauty. Surrounded by dozens of those majestic oak trees, it's one of those sights you need to see in person to appreciate. European ownership of this area dates back to the days of, or just after, the Lord's Proprietors. The land was originally granted in 1694. However, according to the refuge's website, the house was built in 1828.

I also had to get inside to get my hands on much needed brochures. Detailed information on the refuge is hard to find. It's mentioned in Coastal South Carolina, but I learned little more than wildlife, including numerous endangered species, live within its 11,000 acres.

Unable to glean facts from a field trip, I had to turn to the Internet. The primary sources I found (aka, the refuge's website!) indicate the refuge is a great place for birding, hunting and fishing (see website for information, restrictions and any applicable fees). A trail map shows numerous paths suitable for touring the refuge on foot, several of which skirt ponds.

NOTE: Summer and early autumn are NOT the time to go hiking through Lowcountry woods, thanks to ticks and mosquitoes. Without personally checking it out, I can only assume the best times to visit are spring and late fall, and in the winter on a clear day.

The ACE Basin National Wildlife Refuge consists of two units, the Edisto Unit, which is located near Adam's Run, and the Combehee Unit, located off River Road near its intersection with Hwy 17A. For more information, including directions, check out the following websites:

www.fws.gov/acebasin/
www.fws.gov/southeast/pubs/acebasin_gen.pdf

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Copyright 2010. Do not use or distribute text or photos.

Beaufort, South Carolina

New Bern, Murrells Inlet, Charleston, Greenville (SC), and the Blue Ridge Parkway are a few of our favorite Carolina destinations. We visit when we can, to explore and to soak up the beauty that makes each of those places unique. But when I need a hideaway, a place to decompress after a conference or a long stretch without a vacation, we head off the beaten track to the unassuming coastal town of Beaufort, South Carolina.

Resting on a curve of a river by the same name, Beaufort (pronounced "Bu-ford" in SC, according to the nice police officer who didn't arrest me for playfully slapping my husband after he said "I told you so") is somewhat centered in a cluster of sea islands situated between Charleston and Savannah. Within that cluster, Parris Island sits to the southwest, and Hunting Island, the southeast. While not technically within the ACE Basin's boundaries, Beaufort was a must stop on our ACE tour.

Why?

With fat palm trees, tendrils of moss hanging from old oaks, tidal creeks visible from various streets, hotels and restaurants, shops, a charming downtown lined with attractive stores and homes, carriage rides, and boats lounging in the harbor near the waterfront park off Bay Street, Beaufort is an exotic getaway with the creature comforts of home. And my word, you should see the place in spring. Pink, red and white azaleas compete with an abundance of tulip magnolias that bloom throughout the city. It's breathtaking.

It isn't bad during the rest of the year, either:

Though we've visited Beaufort several times, we've yet to explore the winding backwaters of the Lowcountry. When I tweeted our intentions to visit the city, a fellow Twitterer recommended kayaking. Lack of time and the heavy rain that fell shortly after our arrival dashed that hope. Next time.

Conveniently located near the ACE Basin, Hunting Island, and Parris Island, Beaufort is less than an hour from Hilton Head, and about one hour from Savannah, GA. For more information on Beaufort, including a bit about their history, go to www.beaufortsc.org/ and www.beaufort-sc.com/history/

Hunting Island State Park

The ACE is the land within the horseshoe formed by the Ashepoo, Combahee, and Edisto rivers. Carolina Bays pock the northern section of the region1, but along the coast, waterways twist and wind, branching and spreading into the land like tree roots. It is, as the Marine Resources Research Institute calls it, a land of "sea islands, marsh islands, and barrier islands that are interlaced by estuaries, extensive salt marshes, intertidal areas, and oyster reefs."1 The result? Islands spaced beside one another like pieces of a jigsaw puzzle in progress. In an odd coincident, in places, the topography somewhat resembles this canopy of pine that we spotted along the trail:

Within this "Sea Island Complex"1 is Hunting Island. Once a hunting ground for private citizens3, this lush barrier island is now a state park, and it was the first stop on our ACE tour.

Having visited Hunting Island SP in 2005 or 2006, going in we knew to expect a Visitor's Center with a pond and real-live Lowcountry alligator, a marshwalk, and a beautiful lighthouse. We found all but the alligator, but spent little time at most of these attractions. Our goal for this trip was to learn more about the park, and to do so by hiking.

Hunting Island SP has several hiking trails. Two main trails form a long oval, with smaller trails connecting the two at various intervals. From the Visitor's Center, we started on the Maritime Forest Trail, a mixed forest of palmettos and pines, moss-covered oaks twisted with time, with a forest floor covered with what looked like fan palms.

About a quarter mile into the hike, we cut to our left, to the Lagoon Trail. This path runs parallel to a man-made lagoon, where we spotted a pelican flying overhead. A scenic stop on this very scenic route.

We continued on toward the cabins. While at the Visitor's Center, I learned the park no longer accepts reservations for the cabins, as the erosion so prevalent in the coast is quickly claiming the area around the structures. In Coastal South Carolina, Terrance Zepke indicates Hunting Island is eroding both at the northern tip of the island, and at the central beach. Before reaching the path that would take us to the cabins, we cut to the right, crossed the road, and took a tour of the Marshwalk.

Once past the gazebo, we continued on to the tidal creek, where we watched egrets soar over the marsh.

We doubled back and took the Maritime Forest Trail, searching for wildlife as we hiked back to our car. SC's state park site states Hunting Island has "an array of wildlife, ranging from loggerhead sea turtles to painted buntings, barracudas to sea horses, alligators, pelicans, dolphins and deer, raccoons, Eastern diamondback rattlesnakes and even the rare coral snake (I did not know that). We saw an abundance of squirrels, a pelican, and a lone woodpecker. But the forest was a sight to see, and we enjoyed our time on the trail.

But our time at Hunting Island wasn't over. We couldn't leave without seeing the lighthouse.

According to Zepke's Lighthouses of the Carolinas, this structure was built in 1875, and was moved once to avoid erosion. Today, visitors not terrified of heights can walk to the top of the lighthouse for a small fee.

In addition to hiking, boating, bike riding, camping, picnicking, kayaking, or spending time on the beach are other activities one can enjoy at Hunting Island State Park.

1. http://www.dnr.sc.gov/marine/mrri/acechar/esenviro.htm
2. http://www.beaufortcountylibrary.org/htdocs-sirsi/sea.htm 
3. Coastal South Carolina: Welcome to the Lowcountry, Zepke Terrance (Pineapple Press, 2006) p 217