When we scuba divers think about the Caribbean, the first things that usually come to mind are turquoise waters, coral reefs and tropical sunsets. And nothing is more quintessentially Caribbean than the Bahamas. With these thoughts filling my mind, I recently flew to Nassau and joined the Bahamas Aggressor II for a week-long itinerary in the central Bahamas, featuring diving in the Exumas and Eleuthera. The Exumas consists of a series of cays stretching northwest to southeast for over a hundred miles, much of it protected as the world’s first “Land and Sea Park”. Since 1996, this designation has afforded protections such as being a “no-take zone”. It also contributes to a wonderful feeling of remoteness both in and out of the water. Eleuthera, situated east of Nassau, is a narrow island that borders the Caribbean Sea and the Atlantic Ocean; a location that defines the diving to be found there.
Aboard the Bahamas Aggressor II
After boarding the yacht in Nassau on Saturday afternoon, guests were shown to their cabins to get settled and then begin equipment set up on the dive deck, each at their own designated station. This was followed by introductions and thorough safety briefings in the spacious lounge. The “Eat, Sleep, Dive” mantra for the week was introduced, followed by dinner and a chance to get to know my fellow guests – some experienced liveaboard divers, others first timers.
The Lost Blue Hole
After a good night of sleep, we left Nassau early in the morning. On Sunday we would dive sites south of Nassau, enroute to the Exumas. The highlight was the Lost Blue Hole site. This 100-foot-wide blue hole is vibrant with life – both around and inside. Around the perimeter, I came across several Southern Stingrays, a Loggerhead Sea Turtle, Nassau Groupers and Spiny Lobsters. Descending into the hole, the bottom of which is out of reach to recreational divers, I found a Spotted Moray peering out from its hiding spot in the side wall. While not present today, I have in the past observed a resident school of Black-Nosed Sharks swimming up and out from the depths. This particular blue hole, in my humble opinion, is most definitely underrated and lives in the shadow of the more famous Belize Blue Hole.
With the first day of diving complete, smiling guests excitedly exchanged stories of their highlights of the day. The Lost Blue Hole was definitely a big hit! Some guests relaxed in the outdoor lounge with the backdrop of a golden Caribbean sunset, while others relaxed in the hot-tub on the sun deck. Dinner followed… and we have quickly come to realize how well fed we are going to be this week!
Life on Board
The food is worthy of further mention. Continental breakfast before dive 1, full breakfast after dive 1, lunch after dive 2, snacks after dive 3, dinner after dive 4. What really stood out was the quality of the food. It never ceases to amaze me how liveaboard chefs can come up with such delightful culinary creations in relatively small kitchens! One particular afternoon snack had everyone drooling… the Monkey Bread! A sweet treat to blow our minds!
Into the Exumas
By the following morning, the short 3-hour ride over to the Exumas had been completed and we were ready to dive again. For me, much of the appeal of this area was the variety of dive sites and the diversity of marine life that comes with it; from deep plunging walls to shallow reefs, shipwrecks to plane wrecks, sharks to reef fish, crustaceans and mollusks.
Walls, Sharks, and the Reef at Dog Rocks
Over the course of the week, we explored several dramatic walls. “Dog Rocks” was a particularly impressive wall site on the northern edge of the Exuma Cays, where the top of the reef sits at about 40 ft and then plunges vertically into the deep blue, making it one of the region’s most thrilling sites. The terrain features underwater canyons and dramatic swim-throughs, which proved to be very popular with guests. Coral life is rich, with black corals, huge tube sponges and elephant ear sponges that have been growing for hundreds, maybe thousands, of years. Caribbean Reef Sharks were spotted patrolling the wall. A school of Atlantic Spadefish hung out just above, not particularly phased by the presence of divers. As with most of the Caribbean, Lionfish remain an ever-present sighting. With visibility often reaching 100 feet of brilliant blue water it was awe-inspiring to swim a short distance away from the wall and look back at the magnificence of its sheer scale.
Eleuthera – The Atlantic Edge
Another memorable component of the itinerary was diving off the island of Eleuthera. Here, the sites are defined by dramatic walls where shallow reef tops give way quickly to deep blue water, creating a strong sense of scale and exposure that is both exhilarating and humbling.
The walls of Eleuthera are often influenced by nutrient-rich currents, and with that comes an increase in fish life and the potential for larger encounters. Caribbean Reef Sharks were seen cruising along the drop-offs, while schools of snapper and grunts gathered along the wall edges, seemingly suspended in the water column.
Eleuthera’s diving was energetic and dynamic. The coral growth was healthy, with large sponges and gorgonians thriving along the wall. The combination of depth, current and marine life made these dives especially rewarding, further enhancing the diversity of our itinerary.
Shallow Reefs and Sand Patches
Sites such as “Crab Mountain” and “3 Peaks” provided opportunities to explore shallower patches of reef and sand. Trumpetfish were found hanging vertically in the water column, trying to camouflage themselves among gorgonians. Exploring overhangs revealed Spiny Lobsters and huge Channel Clinging Crabs. Green Sea Turtles were seen on several dive sites cruising the reef and periodically ascending to breath before returning to the reef. One of my personal favorites – the Flamingo Tongue mollusk, could be found on several dive sites, usually attached to sea fans. While not a difficult subject to photograph, they are so beautifully patterned and fun to experiment with different angles and backgrounds.
The sandy patches that punctuated the expansive reefs provided different scenery to explore. At first the sand may look like a barren expanse. However, upon slowing down and getting low, numbers of alert Yellowhead Jawfish could be seen dancing above their sandy holes. No sudden movements though or they rocket back into the sand quicker than you can blink! Southern Stingrays nestled in the sand with only their eyes visible could easily be missed. Hermit Crabs shuffled across the sand leaving tell-tale trails.
With such diversity of dive sites and creatures, photographers need to pack both their wide-angle and macro set ups! And be prepared to make decisions before each dive on which lens to select. With such good visibility much fun can be had composing wide angle images using divers or the yacht as a background.
The Wrecks – Austin Smith and the Smuggler’s Plane
Wrecks provided yet more diversity to the itinerary, with two in particular standing out…
The Austin Smith shipwreck sits in 70 ft of water. In the 1970s a Cuban ship was boarded by Bahamian authorities. The Cubans attacked and killed four Bahamian officers, one by the name of Austin Smith. The US donated four cutters, one in honor of each Bahamian who lost his life in the attack, each cutter being named after one of the officers. In the mid 1990’s the Austin Smith was decommissioned and plans were made for it to be scuttled and used as a dive site. However, the Austin Smith never made it to the designated location. It sunk repeatedly during the journey and was left to lie where we find it today. This wreck is frequented by several Caribbean Reef Sharks, making it the sharkiest dive of the week and one of the highlights.
Not all wrecks are shipwrecks…. The Smuggler’s Plane sits in only 15 ft of water. We did this dive in the late afternoon and also as a night dive. In the late afternoon as the sun gets low in the sky, dappled light pierces the water creating a beautiful backdrop to the wreck. The story goes that this area was often used for drug transportation in the 1970’s and 80’s by Pablo Escabar’s cartel. Apparently, the pilot was an Englishman referred to as “British Andy”, who also happened to be quite a drinker. One morning, Andy, in a bit of a tipsy state, decided to practice some takeoffs and landings. The results suggest this was not a wise choice, although Andy was rescued by a nearby boat and survived without any scratches! The plane now sits on the seabed, where it crashed, as a relic of that era and provides refuge for a variety of sea life. Several Giant Anemones, some hosting Spotted Cleaner Shrimps, can be found on the wreckage. Schools of Grunts and Snappers find refuge in and around the structure. Nurse sharks and stingrays can be found in the sand adjacent to the wreckage.
The Friday Ritual – End of Week
Before we knew it, Friday had arrived. After our morning dives we began the journey back to base in Nassau. The hard-working crew ensured all the dive gear was washed and brought up to the sun deck to dry. In fact, from the moment we first boarded the crew worked hard to ensure that guests’ needs were met; on the dive deck, in the water, in the restaurant, the turn down service, and the continued education courses completed by several divers. Back at port, the Aggressor Friday evening tradition is a cocktail party on the sundeck where guests and staff continued to swap stories looking back on their week. Some also received certificates and applause for completing the next steps on their journeys as scuba divers.
As I journeyed home on Saturday, I reflected on the week… It had introduced me to new friends from a wide variety of backgrounds and geographical locations. The WhatsApp group we created is still very active weeks after the trip concluded and I have a feeling it will remain so. As anticipated, the week had also provided a great selection of dive sites and creature encounters to keep everyone entertained. I have a feeling it won’t be the last time I find myself photographing the underwater world of the Exumas and Eleuthera. Classic Caribbean indeed.
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