Attempted Transportation in Thailand

Bangkok, circa 2003 – It’s the next-to-last night of my first business trip to Asia. I want to get something local for my wife. One of the hotel staff kindly writes the name and address of a major shopping center on the back of the hotel business card. Perfect.

I flag a taxi. He speaks little English and I speak no Thai. I show him the business card. He looks it over and nods. I get in and off we go. He’s asking questions. I repeat the bit about the shopping center and show him the card again. We lurch slowly forward in the crazy traffic. After a few blocks, he pulls over and calls out to a pedestrian.

The guy on the street doesn’t know what either of us is talking about. The driver shrugs and waves me out of the cab. I disembark. We haven’t gone far enough to cost me a fare. The taxi drives away as the guy on the street points toward some tuk-tuks, the three-wheeled motorcycles that go everywhere in Thailand. My ride is now reduced by one wheel and a couple of cylinders, but I might still be able to get to the shopping center on time.

I show my business card to the nearest tuk-tuk driver. He looks at it. Another driver looks at it with him. The business card draws a small crowd that now includes the rest of the tuk-tuk drivers and various passersby who wonder what’s so interesting. There is much discussion, much gesticulation, much shaking of heads. The passersby move on. The tuk-tuk drivers disperse. A champion emerges.

A guy who’s less than half my size hands the business card back to me and strides confidently toward a gated area, waving to me to follow. He’s getting his scooter. Scooter? I do the math: I started with a taxi, went down to a tuk-tuk, and have now deducted one more wheel, all of the doors, and most of the engine.

When I mention the shopping center, Mr. Confidence nods repeatedly. He dons a plastic army man helmet and hands one to me. I place it on top of my head where it sits like an abandoned turtle shell stranded on a boulder. The strap ends dangle just below my earlobes. Even if I could buckle it on, this helmet would cause more cranial damage than it would prevent.

Clearly, this will not work, but what’s next? One less wheel and I’ll be riding shotgun on a unicycle.

The shopping center is closing soon. I return the plastic army man helmet to Mr. Confidence and start walking back to the hotel. I get lost only once.

Later, I sketch out how I imagine Mr. Confidence and me on the scooter. I envision a death-defying wheelie when he hits the gas.

I will try again tomorrow–on foot.

Thailand_Mark on a Scooter

Our First Big Hike

LeafFossilTrail_AP_10x8Circa 2000, Oregon – It’s our first real trip together as a couple. Ping has suggested a tour of some of her favorite places in Oregon. I’m stoked.

I’ve been hiking a lot in the last three years, including a recent solo summit of Mt. Forgotten and a couple of climbs to Camp Muir up at 10,000′ on Mt. Rainier, so I consider myself pretty experienced. I’m looking forward to hiking with this delightful woman: doing something I love with someone I love.

It takes more than four hours to drive to the John Day Fossil Beds. I can hardly wait to get on the trail. I talk when I’m excited, and I’ve been talking nonstop.

We pull into the Leaf Fossil Trail parking area. I get out and pop the trunk, prattling on about the Ten Essentials while I pull out my hiking stuff. As we get ready, I enthusiastically describe each piece of gear: what it’s good for, how I learned about it, and how much weight it saves. I have a lot to say.

“See, when I put this duct tape on my heels and each big toe, and wear these hiking socks, I don’t get blisters. My boots and gaiters have Gore-Tex. They’re not just waterproof; they’re breathable. I’ll never wear non-breathable gaiters again! I can adjust these three-section, collapsible trekking poles to the proper length and level of shock absorption most suitable to the terrain.”

I doublecheck the pack: compass, map, whistle, first aid kit, emergency blanket, fire starter, flashlight, extra batteries, extra layers, extra food, hydration system, lip balm, water filter…

Ping just stands there. She’s been ready to go since she tied her shoes.

Finally, I don my glacier glasses, pocket the protective rubber tips from my trekking poles, clip the hydration system mouthpiece to the strap of my pack, and re-position my camera case. Off we go.

I set a steady “go all day” pace: just quick enough to make good distance without wearing us out. I’m still chattering away like a one-man flock of starlings.

“Wow, great place! Fossils everywhere. Hey, once we’ve been hiking for ten minutes or so, I’ll probably stretch. I used to stretch at the trailhead but now I hike a bit first, just to get warmed up, you know? Did I mention how these trekking poles stick to everything? I don’t need them on this level part of the trail, of course, but they really add stability when crossing streams or snowfields. This is actually my second pair. Yeah, the first ones I got were—”

I’m suddenly speechless. The view is unbelievable.

We’re looking…at…our car. But we just left our car. Why is it here?

We have a map. I pull it out.

The Leaf Fossil Trail turns out to be exactly one quarter mile long. Total. And it’s a loop.

We could have walked the whole trail in less time than it took me to gear up. It probably takes longer to say “Leaf Fossil Trail, John Day Fossil Beds National Monument, Painted Hills Unit” than it takes to hike it.

Way more time will be spent laughing about this. Short hike. High entertainment value.